Restaurant

Restaurant Sture

Classification

MASTERS LEVEL

Franco-Nordic fingerspitzengefühl

There’s a new team in the kitchen at Sture, a Malmö institution that began as a cinema but where food has now been served for over a century. With Jonas Dellow in charge, the winds of change have blown through the kitchen as well as across the wine menu – where mature clarets and champagnes have had to make room for some engaging charmers that turn out to go hand in glove with Dellow’s light Franco-Nordic touch. Five small amuses set the tone: luxury (Norway lobster with cured egg yolk and vendace roe), local (tartare of eight-year-old milch cow from Båstad), international (quails’ eggs with pancetta and bottarga) and innovative (little towers of dried olive, watermelon radish and blue congo potato). These are followed by carefully cooked scallops whose sweetness is regulated by cheeky pickled lemon peel and vinegar jelly, and finished with tomato water. A Vouvray from Bernard Fouquet in our glasses makes an awfully good match. And who would have thought that charcoal-baked kohlrabi could be so good? Here the core is served rolled in herbs and spinach, topped with oysterleaf and glasswort and accompanied by oyster cream – brilliant with a vin nature viognier from Ardèche as well as a non-alcoholic verjuice of unripe apples, flavoured with cucumber and parsley. A more sylvan tone is struck by the umami bomb where yellowfoot and other autumn mushrooms mingle with rosehips, a rich stock, a buttery brioche, foie gras, all of it topped by a crisp potato biscuit and black truffle. The main course is as restrained as the wine – a merlot-dominated bordeaux from 2010. This slips down like silk together with a piece of well-aged Fjäll beef that shines with the support of baked beetroot, bitter endive, and a cream of whipped speck and tarragon. Fortunately the cheese trolley has survived the remake and manager/sommelier Frida Ringström guides us knowledgeably through the 15 select and chambré cheeses, which we lap up with a glass of Pineau de Charentes. The sweets section opens with a dreamily light egg creation in which the white has been whipped into a foam with lemon verbena and the yolk into a smooth cream with muscovado sugar, all of it lightened by an apple sorbet. It’s a little harder to love the pretty but insipid coconut cream concoction that follows – but this is a minimal faux pas as our mood soars once again at coffee, which comes with the preamble ‘we have three single-origin coffees – I’ll tell you about each one so you can then choose’. Professional, down to the smallest detail.

Published december 2019

Contact

Adress

Adelgatan 13
211 22Malmö

Phone

+4640121253

Web

http://restaurantsture.com

Other places nearby

News