Grön

On Friday nights, Grön’s tiny, dimly lit dining room is always packed, the space reverberating with a gentle hum of conversations in both Finnish and English. The first thing you’ll notice upon entering is the coterie of young cooks hunched over a sea of small dishes, adding final touches by hand or tweezing garnishes into place in Executive Chef Toni Kostian’s theatrical and lively open kitchen. 

A meal here will effectively transport you straight out of the city and into the countryside, every dish offering a taste of forests, pastures and the Baltic Sea’s salty breeze. It also demonstrates Kostian’s obsession with sustainability as he treats every ingredient with utmost respect. Fermented, pickled and dried elements add the twists and turns that have become synonymous with Nordic cuisine; raw beef accompanied by preserved gooseberries and juniper vinegar-splashed, roasted leeks topped with sorrel leaves are two prime examples. You’re definitely going to want the add-ons offered with the four-course menu; like caviar from Varkaus crown impossibly silky, creamy scrambled eggs. 

The handwritten wine list is presented upon request. It’s surprisingly modest considering that Grön’s owners also run a hip natural wine bar and are importers of fine grape juices. Last time we visited, we opted for a bottle Els Bassots 2017, a skin contact Chenin Blanc from Catalunya that verily enhanced our meal. If you’re not into committing to one specific bottle, go for the wine pairing which might include some off-list treats.

And while we still love Grön, we feel it might have lost a bit of its original ambiance. A few years back, when both owners were there on a nightly basis, the vibe was convivial and passionate, these days that effervescence has been slightly diluted. Meticulously prepared dishes are flawlessly presented by accommodating, yet semi-detached waiters, everything is still very correct, just a pinch less personal and a touch less charming. 

Published June, 2019.