Happolati

In Knut Hamsun’s ”Hunger”, arguably the most famous book to be set in Oslo, the starving, half-mad main character is obsessed with a mysterious and beautiful woman he calls Ylajali. He makes up stories about her, calls her a Persian princess, and imagines that her father, Happolati, invented an ”electronic book of psalms”. The father-daughter duo supposedly resided in the building that now houses the restaurant Happolati, which was previously home to an eatery named after the elusive protagonist-heart throb, Ylajali.

Today, it’s a playful, Asian-inspired establishment with Nordic-Japanese, blond-wood interiors and your regular cast of dining characters; large parties of west-end women and the odd, date-night couple. There are two set menus and some tempting à la carte offerings too. Crispy-puffy pork rinds are accompanied by an enormous helping of  kimchi with trout roe and mayonnaise, if you like your condiments salty, this one’s for you. Raw slices of halibut with briny seaweed and green tomatoes are quaveringly oceanic, but lack some contrasting acidity. The smoky lobster with mayo and a hit of chili is as rich and satisfying as the beef dumplings, punched up with lemongrass and ginger, are delicate and fresh.

Happolati’s dishes are generous, you’re unlikely to leave hungry. The wine list is eclectic and competently put together, the sommelier is knowledgeable. Go with the Chardonnay from Jura producer François Rousset-Martin, it’s fresh yet funky, and holds up well with the rich, flavorful food.

Published January 2020