Matur og Drykkur
An old, seminal cookbook, still swaying culinary traditions
Simply translating to “food and drink”, Helga Sigurðardóttir’s seminal book Matur og Drykkur, first published in 1947 continues to sway Icelandic culinary traditions. Often a moving out gift, the book also inspired its namesake restaurant, reminding locals that Icelandic food was indeed, worthy of being served at a high-end restaurant.
Matur og Drykkur’s fare might read like a challenge: an Instagram friendly cod’s head and a smattering of never-seen-before flourishes like grated lamb’s heart, foal croquettes or lamb testicles, to name but a few of the dishes that are a thorough throwback to the island’s humble culinary roots, while being attention grabbers. Heck, the restaurant even shares space with a Viking Saga museum!
The halibut soup is at once modern and old, its milky mildness is offset by generous chunks of assorted seafood, creamy mussels and the acidity of apples. The foal croquettes’ (also available with reindeer mince in the Fall) paper-thin crackling shell hides a molten blue cheese core. It’s salted cod counterpart pays due respect to Spanish traditions, but it’s the accompanying savury tomato and lovage sauce that might be even more memorable than the fried bites themselves.
A 2016 Domaine de la Motte Chablis is a capable pairing with the cod’s head. Despite an over reduced glaze, the meat itself is tender and moist. We’re rewarded for our efforts with a souvenir, a pair of otoliths. Gleaming white shell-like things, no bigger than a fingernail, these are the bones in a cod’s ear with annual growth rings. A nice touch we think.
Bolstered by a rich, honey-like Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, we further our sweet endings with the fried-to-order kleinur (donuts). Warm and barely sweet, the cloud of cardamom sugar is a fragrant memory to walk out with.
Published, October 2019