Bare

The bar at Restaurant Bare is one of Bergen's best-kept secrets. Covered with hundreds of small mirrors, the Gatsby-esque room, decked out with chandeliers, marble and woodwork-ornate ceilings, is a manifestation of timeless luxury. Here, some of Bergen’s most skilled and enthusiastic bartenders (Bar Manager Raymond Tungesvik, among them) will spoil you with signature cocktails like the fresh Gin Basil Smash. Instead of ordering a glass of Champagne, try the refreshing Hardanger' apple Hardangertini.

The opening snacks on the menu of five- to ten courses are served right in the bar. Your evening might start off with flatbread and a soft potato dumpling filled with melting pork, before you’re lead into the spacious, continental brasserie-like dining room with white walls, mirrors, green plants and chairs upholstered with wool from wild sheep.

The name Bare means “only” in Norwegian. It’s a humble name for a restaurant with such high ambitions. Head Chef Kristian Bretten Vangen is on a quest, hunting a through-and-through Nordic expression spiced with coastal flavors of seaweed and salt. Case in point: the cured halibut, one of the tasting extravaganza’s most elegant dishes. The fish hides underneath a forest of radish, cress and crispy fried halibut skin and swims in a subtle, creamy emulsion with oysters. A pillowy, pan-fried langoustine with rye and leek is accompanied by massive, full-bodied, organic drops of Chenin Blanc from Pithon-Paillé; a pairing that is both modern and classic.

If the meal could be summed up in three elements, it would be brown butter, tradition, and playfulness. These are both the strengths and the weaknesses of Restaurant Bare. Few things in life are better than butter, but too much of the caramelized flavor makes several plates too similar. The conventional pan-fried fish dishes are fine but predictable on a menu that aims to move traditions forward. The traditional Norwegian “sandkake” are more innovative. Bare has been playing with this dish for two years, and it’s both surprising and delicate. So is the exceptional pork-lollipop made with Mangalitsa, a signature dish that can also be ordered at the bar. It’s definitely something you shouldn't miss when in Bergen.

Published January 2020