Nautical

It’s a historical place, Nautical. The restaurant is splendidly housed in the maritime museum that was built by master mariners from Åland around the middle of the 20th century. Anchored outside is a magnificent four-masted steel barque, Pommern – the only one of its kind preserved in its original condition. This, and much besides, the staff tell us about Mariehamn’s pride as our glasses are filled with a dark lager from Åländska Stallholmen. The restaurant could just as well have been in one of the ship’s finer saloons – the lamps in the windows, the white tablecloths, the soft chairs and the staff uniforms all contribute to this impression. Lunches are perfectly enjoyable here, but both ambition and ambience shift up a gear in the evening. Most of the dining menu is included on a popular tasting menu that opens with a trio of white asparagus – the silky soup is nicely contrasted with softly cold-smoked salmon and vibrant Åland trout roe. Ingredients are chosen with care, in season and by origin – from the island itself or the mainland to the east or west whenever possible. The best-seller, which also the waiter’s favourite, is Finnish fillet of beef, safely served with soft onion, a spinach salad with parmesan, and ramsons butter. A glass of ripasso with that. The wine list is of the simpler kind, and yet it contains just about all the classic styles and regions. Opting out of the kinuski sauce with newly made house vanilla ice cream isn’t easy, but the preserved rhubarb with white chocolate mousse is the best conclusion on the list.

Published June, 2019.