Muru

Muru – the name means both “darling” and “crumble” in Finnish – has been animating the calmer side of Fredrikinkatu street since 2010. The place belongs to celebrity chef Henri Alén, serial restaurateur Timo “Lintsi” Linnamäki and sommelier Samuil Angelov, it’s known for its friendly and professional service, and, first and foremost, its unforgettable winelist. The ambiance is airy and cosmopolitan, the dining room, with its impressive 6,5 meter-ceiling height, is buzzy in all the right ways. There’s mezzanine bulging with wines from both the Old and the New World.

The four-course menu changes daily and comes with wine suggestions. Jerusalem artichokes in three ways, paired with a glass of Vinho Verde by Maria Papoila is a great start, its fresh and grassy notes of green apple highlighting the dish’s nasturtium leaves and roasted hazelnuts. Muru’s real crowd pleaser, however, is the risotto. Sometimes made with artichokes and just a few small dollops of lemony cream sauce, it’s deftly matched with a Furmint by the young Slovenian winery Verus Vinogradi, adding the acidity and herbiness that this dish requires.

The well curated beverage list also offers non-alcoholic pairings and a slightly dark roasted coffee from local Kaffa Roastery; full-bodied, with a balanced blend of sweet, rounded Colombian-, and bright, berrylike Ugandan beans. For desert: a blast from the past – a deconstructed yet comforting lemon pie. Muru is such a sweetheart. 

Published June, 2019.