Olo Restaurant
Stately servings with witty references
Seagulls scream in the breeze above, ferries come and go at your feet, the majestic Presidential Palace is right behind you. Olo’s surroundings are historic and stately, with a nautical vibe to boot. This sparse and elegant establishment offers a delicate yet assertive two- to three hour gastro-show. Front of house-staff is dressed in navy-like suits, but perform sincerely, without any stiff, straight-laced airs. Bo Kaspers Orkester’s mellow tunes go well ith the featherlight decor. The white linen tablecloths are sharp yet casual and the attention to details is remarkable––guests requesting on the spot menu changes are met with nothing but enthusiasm. Additionally, the menu is designed to accommodate the rapidly growing number of climate-conscious diners as it can easily be tailored to vegetarians and vegans alike.
One sip of the Forest cocktail, flavored with spruce, pine and lingonberries, will put you in a very Finnish state of mind. Accompanied by a warm mushroom broth with a confit of adorably petite Finnish champignons, it sharpens the mental image of being in the middle of a coniferous forest. Thinly sliced yellow- and chioggia beets, served in a dashi poured table-side, is an elegantly complex dish, its oceanic flavors magically enhanced another notch by the Forest tipple.
A rose made of preserved beets is served alongside a billberry sauce with ingeniously subtle tarragon notes; shiny, ravishing and royal, it’s a jewel on a plate. The porridge of organic emmer wheat from Malmgård farm is served with summer truffles from Italy, excellent as it is, it would probably soar even higher with a touch of acidity.
Siikli potatoes with morels and white asparagus in a mushroom stock is a textbook example of umami. It’s followed by a dish of leeks piled high,with a dome of thinly sliced white asparagus and a ramson oil-spiked cream sauce, the presentation reminding of ebru, the ancient Turkish marbling art. On the side: a tartelette with mustard- and hemp seeds and kombu-marinated white asparagus. This tour de force is paired with a vivacious grenache noir by Parés Baltá, a match where one plus one truly is three.
Continuously for the past six-years, even on days off, the chefs at Olo have been feeding their sourdough, christened Sven. You’ll find the fruits of this labor right there on your table, rising in a cast iron pot until taken to the kitchen to be baked.
The dinner is completed with an updated version of the classic Finnish ice cream bar Eskimo. It highlights the jocular character of Olo: no boundaries, just possibilities.
Published June, 2019.