Palace Grill

A soirée at Palace Grill is not a puritanical affair. This Oslo institution, famous for its bounteous food, generous pours and sybaritic nature, has long been a place of worship for all types of hedonistic gourmands. Located at the intersection of the laidback downtown area and the swanky west side, this establishment has one foot on either side of the fence, it’s where rough cats mingle with rich kids in the colorful multi-floored courtyard or in the original brown bar, where it all started back in the mid-90’s.

Entering the little restaurant with its worn French bistro-esque décor and high ceilings, we’re assaulted by the tangible animation that electrifies the room; music, chattering, cheering and feasting, a sound carpet of heavenly proportions.

We opt for the wine pairing. What else are we supposed to do when there’s no wine list available? Truth be told, there is a rich cellar for those who insist on buying bottles, but when the somm is this good, why commit to whole bottles? Tasty snacks of creamy snails on toast and almost raw whale are gulped down before the first course arrives; extraordinarily succulent king crab fried in a crispy batter, served with spicy kimchi. Time to unbuckle the belt one notch! Spätlese Riesling from Mosel legend J.J. Prüm sings along with the decadent crustacean. Next up is a handsome and portly langoustine tail, then foie gras, marinated in Cognac and Sauternes, served with white peach and tonka bean syrup. A late harvest 2010 Pinot Gris from Zindt-Humbrecht in Alsace has the richness to deal with this delicious piece of political incorrectness.

The kitchen is probably smaller than yours, but it churns out around 250 plates per night. Out comes perhaps the highlight of the meal, a pan-fried turbot with grilled and baked cabbage and mussel sauce, topped with Belgian caviar. We pray to the Gods of Gout that we’ll not be their next victims. We also say a quick Amen to the Premier Cru white Burgundy we’re sipping, because it’s not often you encounter a wine of this caliber in in a pairing. The quail breast with porcini purée and hollandaise sauce with Pata Negra lardo is worth a hallelujah too, the same goes for the veal with baked celeriac, foie gras and black kale, served with a 2005 Cantalupo Ghemme Nebbiolo, from a magnum, no less.

All notions of snobbery and haute eating are tossed aside when someone in our party orders a glass of vodka slush with lime and basil. Hydration should be praised. After a cheese course and a saintly strawberry dessert we exit sideways, spilling straight into the courtyard’s seemingly never ending party where the Bacchanal continues. This is one of the best experiences Oslo has to offer an overindulgent eater.

Published January 2020