Statholdergaarden

Bocuse d'Or winner Bent Stiansen has been reining the illustrious extravaganza known as Statholdergaarden for a quarter of a century, thanks to him it’s become Oslo’s go-to place for celebrations and special occasions. This is pomp at its best. The restaurant is situated in a landmarked building from the 1640's, the dining rooms are regal, the guests dressed to the nines and the tablecloths of the kind that reach all the way to the dark hardwood floors.

The soothing blue-gray Cleopatra Room takes its name from extravagant, two-tone ceiling relief that features the Egyptian ruler’s dramatic death. The atmosphere here is hushed, dignified and old-fashioned, it’s the ultimate backdrop for classic elegant dining, with attentive, alert and polished service. The waiters might be very young, but they’re proficient and always a step ahead.

Go ahead, have an aperitif, even though it’s a no-occasion-Tuesday, then settle in with the amuse bouches. The duck confit croquette with yuzu is a perfect example of the chef's trademark cross-cultural cooking, while a crispy salmon tart with trendy tarragon proves he can keep up with the younger competition. An oceanic starter showcases raw, thinly sliced scallops and mackerel two ways; au naturel and hot smoked to unctuous richness, nicely cut by acidic, crispy apple and dill. Green asparagus from Hvasser is thankfully served as whole spears, with lumpfish roe, zucchini and a classic butter sauce, textural toasted quinoa and pickled onions that could have been a tad less sweet.

Take a moment’s pause and savor the palate-cleansing apple and celery sorbet with Nyr cheese before the monkfish arrives, a tableau of contrasts; blackened on the outside and pristine white on the inside, served with crisp artichokes, puréed broccoli and a rich shellfish vinaigrette that teeters on the over-seasoned. The cheese course is straight-from-the-farmer all Norwegian, accompanied by an array of condiments. Dessert is guaranteed to be seasonal and fit for an empress.

Published January 2020