Lysverket

Situated in an old power station turned stylish modern art museum, Lysverket is home to gold-toothed punk-rock chef Christoffer Haatuft. After stints in New York with Thomas Keller and Dan Barber, Haatuft returned home to take full advantage of the ingredients on offer in Western Norway. His brand of cooking has earned its own moniker: Neo-Fjordic Cuisine, a cuisine that could only exist in Bergen and is distinctly ingredient-driven. Lysverket sources seafood and shellfish from its own designated diver, buys produce directly from nearby farms and game from local hunters, and presents the food in a precise, but laid-back and informal fashion.

Diners can choose from a ten-course tasting menu, or pick many of the same dishes (and a few additional ones) à la carte. Starters include a Fjordic iteration of an international mainstay; house made potato chips, seasoned with dill and served with a smoked cod dip. Freshly picked wild oysters are large and meaty, served simply with lemon wedges. A single, portly, locally grown, grilled and glazed shitake mushroom with king crab is texturally interesting, the chewy earthy fungus contrasting with the tender white crab. Pork belly with fried oysters and Brussels sprouts is a creative take on the surf and turf theme. Service is informal yet attentive, the wine list is well curated with choices ranging from the hippest natural wines to more classic Old World choices.

Published January 2020