Gården

Patrik Ivanovski, who used to run Biscotti (a café with excellent lunches and fine pastries) has created a new place in Vasastan. Severe Nordic decor and pleasantly sepia-toned lighting. Seasonal ingredients and vins nature are a given. The tasting menu actually needs to be ordered in advance, but the pleasant and well-informed staff nevertheless manage to arrange a splendid array of dishes served on pretty ceramics. Elegant appetisers x 2: yellowfoot mousse with preserved pear and cloudberry flakes that provide an excellent contrast to the woodland flavours. And plump potatoes, smoked egg yolk, cod roe and alp cheese topped with dill powder. The bread basket contains Hönökaka, this soft and sweet Bohuslän classic, and homemade cultured butter. A trio from the plant kingdom follows: lovely concentrated sweetness in a slow-baked carrot and egg yolk sauce with a touch of smoke flavour, perfectly matched with a glass of Bianco Conestabile. Number two is a small ball that proves a favourite – celeriac baked for four hours, served with its tops, tarragon sauce and grated hazelnut. The third is black salsify rolled in leek ash with Gotland truffle, oyster mushroom and beetroot, heightened by Calcarius from a litre bottle (like a bottle of cordial). Great to pause with a granita of raspberry with hot spice [?]. Arctic char, red apple sauce and red cabbage make a nice flavour line, where a Jerusalem artichoke is the only off-note. Mallard, shiitake, pumpkin purée with cloudberries to add zest to the sweetness, topped with lovage. A mug of coffee cherry tea is served before the exuberant finale of a chocolate pastry, hazelnuts, cream with lemon verbena, sea buckthorn sauce and raspberry wine from Blaxsta.

Published december 2019