Mutantur

Mutantur is a food bar in the very best sense of the word. Here Alexander Sjögren and his team conjure an extensive menu of around 30 small dishes with a plate aesthetic that’s hard to beat. It’s minimalist and stylistic, but also tasty down to its toes. There are no rules for how to order – choose your own mix based on your mood or diet – with one third of the menu vegetarian, one third vegan, and the rest mixed. The decor is in a black, bare and forgettable style, as opposed to the memorable taco of fried sweetbread with plums, jalapeño and pickled endives, or the wild duck with elder cream. The atmosphere in the open kitchen, behind the curving black bar counter that runs the length of the restaurant, is jolly. Sjögren himself is almost always here, and succeeds with his three younger colleagues in maintaining an excellent interplay of tweezers, management and guests – they take it in turns to lay out the dishes, with smiles and explanations. The house classic is something as rustic as twist bread. The roll of wheat and emmer is balanced on a long, knotty stick, evoking cosy campfire cooking memories. Sjögren also gets his inspiration from the street, and has his own version of Malmö’s national dish, falafel. Two small, soft chickpea balls with a daintily crispy surface are served with grated truffle on top and a pitch black truffle cream for dipping. It’s difficult to get something yummier in a fine dining restaurant. The drinks list is a neat and flexible mix of classical and nature producers, with several options by the glass.

Published december 2019