Rutabaga

Mathias Dahlgren is among Sweden’s foremost gastronomic innovators and inspirers. When he closed his top-notch restaurant and opened a lacto-ovo vegetarian eatery in the luxury hotel, many people thought ‘now he’s gone too far’. After a somewhat shaky start, both the menu and the prices have found the right level. And guests have come flocking. Mathias Dahlgren has (once again) set a new standard for the restaurant experience of the future. The interior, by Eye Interior, is itself innovative in many ways. It feels warm and snug with light wood, soft hues, warm lighting, and the excellent idea that all guests by the walls round the communal table are seated in twos – next to each other and with a view of the space. The guest mix is distinctly international – young folk with a lifestyle that combines awareness and curiosity. Non-alcoholic drinks are as much in focus as alcoholic ones. All the colourful home-made juices and fruits whipped up à la minute are on show on the large kitchen island. That is also where the (somewhat overpriced) cocktails are mixed – with or without alcohol. We immediately select a winner among the snacks: chorizos of black beans and chickpeas in gossamer roll of rye bread on green goo of chimichurri. Steamed radishes with apple hollandaise are a close second. All dishes are intended to be shared, which promotes conversation about what we’re eating. Like finely shredded apple and kohlrabi with hazelnuts and green mango oil. Crisp and refreshing. Or the grilled heart salad with green beans, fried lacinato kale and a dressing of Italian truffle and walnuts. Fine contrasts with a distinctive griddle flavour. Mathias’ own favourite, carrot, comes in a pretty presentation where all the flavours of carrots have been extracted in five variations – everything from raw to juice to puréed, and served with smoked cream and tapioca pearls of elder. A lovely pairing with an orange wine from Movia, a Croatian producer. One of many fine wine selections in the vin nature style. Rutabaga’s most popular signature dish is the truffle pizza with grilled onion, potato slices and smetana, topped with Umbrian truffle crumbs and grated cheese: Havgus from Arla’s Unika line. Paired with a nebbiolo from Le Piane in Piemonte, it’s close to magic. The dessert of little dabs and peaks of lemon curd and ditto parfait with chocolate sprinkles is a bit too sweet, and we would have welcomed more of the blueberry sorbet with soured cream. Overall, the menu at Rutabaga shows off Dahlgren’s consistent gift: creating luxurious simplicity. We can but submit to it. As have other guests who leave little dictums on the blackboards that serve as guest books: ‘Ever greener, ever keener’.

Published december 2019