Bryggerikrogen

The restaurant in the heritage quarter by the stream on the outskirts of the centre has matured further. They’ve introduced a brilliant Christmas buffet that you get served at your table, and they’ve run a large and comfortable outdoor section with an outdoor self-service kitchen, wine tastings and happenings in the pub. But above all they’ve developed the food and service in the restaurant, with a clear owner presence in the kitchen and the dining room. The cooks look like they’re having loads of fun in their open kitchen. The servers enjoy serving honest, straightforward fine food to locals and visiting food lovers. The dining room is warmer and cosier; the vibe and the granny plates are the same. Ingredients have a clear provenance, and vegetables, meat and fish are handled with the same respect and finesse. A snow-white summer zander with a ramsons pesto and browned butter has finely balanced flavours. In the autumn we like an entrecôte for two from Gymninge Farm – the cow grazed with a sea view! Nicely browned, the right amount of bite and a nuanced, clean taste. This is served with grilled and baked root veg, freshly picked chard and lovely spiced butter melting over the greens. Dessert is rich chocolate cake fried like French toast, with a preserved pear filled with coffee and chocolate cream. Adult flavours, lifted higher by a syrupy PX sherry – scrumptious. The wine selection by the glass is sensible. The list of bottles consists of vins nature from around the world and is long, hand-picked and interesting. The beer is exclusively Swedish, and preferably from breweries in the neighbourhood. This place is worth a trip of its own, or at least a visit when you’re doing the sights of the little timbered town. 

Published december 2019