Hantverket Mat & Bar

It’s a bit of an odd fish in the otherwise manor-heavy portfolio of the conference conglomerate known as Stockholm Meeting Selections, but the restaurant in Sturegatan undoubtedly lives up to the implications of the group’s name. On the esplanade, along the generous kitchen bar with a full view of the kitchen, in the dining room, and in the bar down a few steps to the left – Hantverket is certainly a watering hole with pulling power. And it’s not just the dynamic and modern interior that draws. The menu is extensive enough to include dishes that guests choose to return for as well as a clutch of new ones. Delicately crisp Hasselback potatoes with vendace roe and soured cream is definitely among the former – as is the now legendary lamb isterband, a new take on traditional smoked sausage. The table props come in wood, granite and blackest cast iron – an old seven-hole stuffed pancake pan, for instance, contains another fixture which, with a bit of luck, includes salmon tartare with a moreish Dijon mayo, tart swede, refreshing lemon jelly, salmon roe, and a consistency-contrasting ruffle of brittle filo dough. That has to be ordered for two. ‘It’ll be fun to see which one of you takes the last one’, the waiter says cheekily. Dining room self-esteem is strong, and now with good reason (even if the wait by the entrance can still get a bit long). The menu language also bespeaks self-confidence. God forbid that someone would drop ‘creamed macaroni’, for they’ve been spiced up with tarragon and reinforced with perfectly al dente broad beans, under a generous heap of Himmelsraften, a Jämtland cheese. Or the laconic ‘ice lolly’, which can turn out to be frozen mint chocolate mousse sprinkled with crushed pistachio. Smart and enjoyable drinks all round, including water for the dog.

Published december 2019