Postgatan

For many years we’ve wondered how seven, eight, nine, even ten-course menus could be composed with such feeling by a few friends in a small kitchen. And now that Postgatan’s new concept is beginning to settle, with guests getting more room at the new round tables, it’s the kitchen’s turn – more space and air is in the offing there too. Tongue-in-cheek Nordic is the tune here, with flavours from Småland and Öland. What ends up on you plate or in the stock is often a manifestation of local friendships with growers, hunters and small-scale producers. Choose small dishes (‘smapas’), main courses or a tasting menu. There’s even a cheese trolley in the dining room these days! Best on the smapas menu is herb-baked wild duck from Södermöre with sweet and tart yellowfoot, quince and an umami broth the cook himself pours onto your plate from a pretty jug. The flavours fly in fine formation with a just-so easy-going burgundy. Our favourite among the main courses is the butter-fried turbot fillet swimming in a frothy mussel sauce and crowned by deep-fried kale. The variety of well-chosen wines and beers with interesting origins and from small producers make you pretty much want to drink your dinner. The evening grows chattily long, with new diners joining in, making us a mix of eccentrics, couples, a group of golfers, two turtle doves and some wine nerds at the bar. The Postgatan people speak to us all as if we were their good friends. The place fizzes with the desire to share knowledge, and we’re already looking forward to our next visit.

Published december 2019