Far i Hatten

Far i Hatten, with its gigantic esplanade reminiscent of open-air dance halls of yore, has been in use since the end of the 19th century. In the summer it’s full of thirsty families with kids, as it combines good food and drink with kids’ priorities such as soft drinks, cakes and space to run around in. When Malmöites’ much-loved Folkets Park turns empty and barren with encroaching winter, it’s fortunate that the little red wooden cottage offers warmth and charm. The decor is pitched somewhere between upmarket charity shop and circus. Intensive socialising goes on at the bar, which is hardly surprising considering the endless list of vins nature by the glass. The dining room hosts a mix of couples and families with kids, and the atmosphere is jovial. The menu features wood-fired pizzas and medium-sized dishes of local provenance – a good mix that both satisfies and surprises. Along with a white pizza topped with pumpkin from Skåne and browned butter, we receive an enthusiastic lesson in how to go about using pumpkin at home. The love of cooking is evident, and reiterated when we receive a nest of fried potatoes in a potato broth whose richness matches the cute, creamy quails’ eggs served with it. An Italian wine made with extended skin contact and aged in amphoras, Fricandò from Al di là del Fiume, matches it nicely with its ripe fruit notes. To finish we have a memorable almond tart with a caramel ice cream. Far i Hatten has a long and venerable history – in terms of atmosphere, tradition and cooking – to pay its respects to, and this honourable mission is very impressively merged with today’s modern gastronomy and drinks.

Published december 2019