Lilla Ego

The name is downright misleading. This is far from a little egocentric place. Instead there’s a large, warm and inviting foodie heart beating away in this modest little Vasastan space. Stockholmers know this. Seven years after it opened, Lilla Ego still has some of the most sought-after tables in the capital, famously hard to get your hands on unless you book far ahead. Räms’ and Sjöstedt’s informal restaurant is well established on the gastronomic map, and now seems deserving of the title of modern classic. Service is prompt, friendly and frequently tattooed. Did we mention knowledgeable? The kitchen sets out from a Nordic ingredient universe and presents dishes in a quirky, somewhat grand style. They include a number of components in different textures, layers and states – often in the form of elegant, deceptively nonchalant piles, or structured vertically. It’s complex, but they pull it off with a steady hand. You get a lot of gastronomy for your money, which has of course contributed to the enormous success. Elaborated starters with soused herring are safely parked long-term on the menu. One version, with elder and crisp egg, has been particularly good. Vendace roe is another mainstay, as is the signature flourish: grated butter with sunflower seeds with the yummy sourdough bread. Seaman’s duck is a queer dish with potato peelings, foam, and high-octane jus. The wine is in line with the place: ambitious and individual. Dining spaces at the bar can’t be booked. The regulars know this. Now you too can drop in on a whim for food made by Nobel banquet chefs.

Published december 2019