PM & Vänner
In fine form after fifteen years at the top
It starts with a ‘moment of zen’ when rounded, warm Småland stones are placed before you and you’re asked to lay the palms of your hands on them. Your shoulders drop, and calm arrives. The evening at mäster Bengtsson’s can begin. His food philosophy still sits solidly on the three pillars of forest, meadow and sea. And the drinks philosophy remains unassailable: only the best is good enough. That goes a long way when everyone knows that Rubén Sanz Ramiro, one of Europe’s foremost sommeliers, is in the house. His first challenge is a symphony of all the mushrooms in the Småland woods, mixed with a cream of celeriac and browned butter. This is paired with a twenty-year-old riesling spätlese from the Mosel. And yes: it’s magic. The pinot noir from Oregon is a superb partner for a beautiful terrine of natural duck’s liver and confit of elk neck with carrots from Vassmolösa and horn of plenty. All served in an umami-rich stock with cep. Service is top-rate in everything from serving wine and drinks to light-hearted presentations. Per Bengtsson often appears in person to look after his guest relations. The presentation of bread from the house bakery, next door, is magnificent – small, round crispbread on a wooden stand and a jar of warm rolls, to spread with newly churned butter and lard flavoured with juniper berries and fir shoots, or an emulsion of whitefish and apple. The bread is immediately followed by a white marble slab with a Norway lobster from Fjällbacka, pickled fennel, elderflower and a rich crayfish emulsion. A fruity muscat from Zind-Humbrecht makes us particularly happy. The best meat dish is the elk calf loin, cooked perfectly pink, served with pickled cauliflower fungus, smoked beef marrow, little onions and an elderberry purée. Perfect with a Brunello di Montalcino, but the dish wouldn’t win a beauty contest. The biggest dose of Småland is in the cheese course – goat’s cheese from a single goat. The goat’s name is Astrid, and her milk has been used to make a camembert, which is served with a deep-fried panko crust, crushed rye and house-extracted honey, and to make a goat’s cheese ice cream with freeze-dried lingonberries. To conclude, the latest launch: loose-leaf tea in test tubes, presented in an attractive casket. Choose from black, green and infusions. The tea is served in ceramics by Ingegerd Råman, an artist and Per Bengtsson’s great inspirer. This year is the fifteenth time that PM & Vänner is included in White Guide – that’s the same number of years the guide has existed. And even more fascinating: every year, PM & Vänner have managed to perform at the Masters Level. Since 2009 it’s even among the Global Masters. An unparalleled achievement. Thanks to PM & Vänner and its gastro-hotel, Växjö has become a gastronomic destination in its own right.
Published december 2019