Sumac Grill + Drinks

The slate flooring with timber inlay is one of the first things you notice when stepping into Sumac. The bon vivant flair is bookended by the open bar at one end and the open kitchen grill at the other. Brown leather and distressed concrete walls recall other post-crash, industrial chic interiors, though here it’s softened by the bustle and clink of glasses.

Named after the tart berry, the restaurant is an expression of chef Þráin Freyr Vifgússon’s fondness for the flavors of the Levant. Throw in a selection of Lebanese wines, old world classics and fun cocktails at attractive prices, and it’s easy to see why Sumac is such a draw.

The food is loosely inspired by Lebanon and Morocco, and shared dishes are the definitive way to dine, despite the menu’s European attitude. Starting with arak is always a good idea, there’s a good selection of this anise-redolent quaff, appealing to both the novice and the seasoned diner.

Perhaps in an unnecessary quest for refinement, the kitchen seems to plug purees in lieu of contrasts, a defining quality of Moorish and Levantine cuisine. Pickles and feathery herbs are amiss but the plates are colorful and tasty nonetheless. The whole roasted cauliflower has a staunch following and the shakshouka is as robust as you’ll find it in Tel Aviv. But it is the grilled lamb chops that better capture the ethos of the restaurant––cooked to a pleasing touch of pink doneness, the smoky morsels are served with a tumbling of Puy lentils, grilled grapes and fried almonds. Accompanied with a leathery Château Ksara Reserve Du Couvent, it is a memorable meal on its own. It’s always a treat when classic cooking skills are favored over sous-vide preparation, and when Sumac nails it, it does so with aplomb.

Published, October 2019.