Alouette

Graffiti, the age-old signal for teen spirit and restless edginess, covers every inch of the harbor area Islands Brygge’s shoddier side. “Rock Island” we read on the sign above the door before entering the ambitiously painted elevator that rattles us up to the first floor where Chefs Nick Curtin and Andrew Valenzuela greet us in their ultra-chic lair. They’ve both toiled in New York, and likewise, both done due diligence at Noma.

With so much self-confidence, creativity and razor-sharp flavors––at an affordable price point––it’s no wonder the wait list is long. Alouette combines relatively classic techniques with sneaky moves and quirky details, the sum total of which feels fresh and innovative.

Our sommelier assures us, with slightly understated humor and a broad Irish accent, that he can read our wishes before we even know what we want. He promptly pours a Riesling from Josephshöfer in Mosel, young and spunky, with great acidity and sweet citrus notes, headbutting nicely with the slight fattiness of the sweetbreads that are first low-temp cooked, then double fried, giving the soft, delicate gland a satisfying, crisp edge. Cabbage and cabbage shoots add bitterness and texture while onion sauce and bergamot emulsion contribute with further depth.

But make no mistake, the menu doesn’t dabble with fusion, it plays with fire. There’s a fire pit here and it’s used extensively. It’s where lemons are dehydrated before they’re served on fine, pasta-like strips of a Danish squid with an emulsion of squid juice; the dish a tableau of umami, acidity and pleasantly rebellions textures. The shoulder of Iberico pig, presa, also gets the fire pit-treatment; it’s stuffed with truffle, crispy on the surface and punched up with a spicy-sweet pear relish.

Dessert announces itself before it arrives, reflected in the dining room’s many mirrors; Alice's milk ice-cream, with lemon curd, olive oil and flakes of dehydrated blood orange combines acidity and subdued creaminess with punky-peppery notes of olive oil and riotous, citrus fruit bitterness

It’s all in the details at this gastro-garage rock concert.

Published June 2019.