Palace

Palace is a restaurant most Finns have a memory of or an opinion about. Built in 1952 when the Finnish capital hosted Summer Olympics, Palace still offers an historical trip to a black-and-white Helsinki of yesteryear. 

After it was bought by a group of restaurant industry professionals and the NoHo Partners – a company turning dusty eateries into contemporary dining experiences – Palace is a living example of what a good makeover looks like. Pastel colors and a gentle overall look are a brave manoeuvre in the world of traditional fine dining restaurants Today, the main act, aka the food, is brought to center stage. Though the view from the dining room’s 10th floor location might steal some of your attention. Seamless, peaceful teamwork seems to be the wait staff’s mantra, tableside preparations by the chefs add a dash of drama.

The culinary journey starts off with a vendace roe-bejeweled Jerusalem artichoke mousse that is almost sinful in its earthy and abundant flavors. Served with a traditional unleavened, naturally fermented buckwheat and potato bread, this dish is a clear winner. 

Broccoli, blooming cauliflower, crispy kale and sweet, sautéed cabbage topped with a parsley and mussel sauce is as vibrant and green as a meadow in spring. It’s masterfully paired with a bold, organic Riesling by Immich-Batterieberg from Mosel that sings luscious stone fruit notes. Cod from Lofoten rests on a spoonful of elegantly sweet-tart black garlic sauce that marries delightfully with a rich cream sauce and the season’s first, crisp white asparagus, the whole thing effortlessly matched with a white burgundy. 

A chocolate pastry dessert brings to mind Anthon Berg’s chocolate treats; milk- and dark chocolate mousse layered with a jam of last summer’s preserved tart cherries, enhanced by a dollop of crisp milk ice-cream. A dark blend of Brazilian, Guatemalan, Colombian and Kenyan coffees roasted by Robert Paulig Roastery is a surprisingly strong and bitter beverage after such a delicately flavored meal, especially when served with a cold white chocolate and raspberry confection that demands more acidity and fruit. 

Published June 2019.