Ravintola C

Even though it’s located just across the street from the railway station, restaurant C is not necessarily all that easy to find. The bright and relatively small space, with white, almost see-through curtains is a true gem showcasing not only Finnish cuisine, but also Finland itself.

We step in to Ella Fitzgerald’s elegant tunes swinging in the background. Surprisingly, the service and hospitality at C is quite formal, it sticks to classic form, with astute waiters describing the food with poise and smooth gestures––a refreshing change, having endured one too many chefs kneeling tableside to give you what resembles a short public speech.

We start off briskly with three welcoming snacks from the kitchen. The crispy sourdough roll with perch ceviche and dill emulsion is an aha-moment that encapsulates all that C is about, namely Finland. The hints, in addition to the fact that we are, in fact, in Finland, are everywhere: instead of dull uniforms the waitresses wear dresses by local designer Uhana and the butter from nearby Heikkilä dairy farm is served in classy Iittala glass cubes, to mention but a few of the tasteful details. All the produce that make up the vibrant dishes are Finnish, and for the most part local as well. 

C pioneered using wild herbs and plants in fine-dining. It’s evident in the way they are presented: not as components to cause a wow-effect per se, but as ingredients like any other. A garden angelica granité with turnip juice is a playful reference to the grated turnip salad every Finn knows, it’s a classic feature in the school cafeterias, workplace canteens and lunch buffets all around the country. A pre-dessert of deep fried turnip with meadowsweet paste is served as chips and dip and offers a divine, thought-provoking play with textures. 

All wines at C are European and the sommellerie is on point: stories about producers and soil are presented tableside. SP68, a Sicilian, biodynamic and natural blend of Zibibbo and Albanello made by young and ambitious Arianna Occhipinti, pairs perfectly with a pike and carrot dish.

A lightly smoked, melt-in-your-mouth goat’s milk ricotta is the food of our dreams. Accompanied by salted birch leaves, emulsified goutweed and pickled funnel chanterelles, it transports us to a verdant Finnish forest after a light summer rain. A standing ovation also for the apple and cucumber juice paired with the dish, a non-alcoholic, complex beverage for a sophisticated palate.

They say the way to man’s heart is through his stomach. Well, the way to the heart of Finnish nature is to eat at C. 

Published June, 2019.