Inari

Inari was buzzy well before it even opened, every Helsinki gastronaut speculating about what would become of restaurant industry power trio Kim Mikkola, Johan Borgar and Tapio Tamminen’s latest endeavor; Mikkola, a former sous-chef at Noma, Borgar, the sommelier at now defunct Chef & Sommelier, and Tamminen a forward-thinking wine importer. Turns out a lot could be said about Inari, a fine dining establishment that is somewhat misunderstood by local diners, but wholly embraced by international gourmets.

Located a few steps below street level, with a discreet sign above the door, Inari (meaning fox in Japanese) can easily pass unnoticed. Its interiors are equally minimalist, encouraging the guests to focus all their attention on the concept at hand. The carefully chosen details tell a story for those willing to listen. It’s in the one pink crystal chandelier and the matching hand-blown water glasses by Finnish glass artist Gina Salaris, it’s in the sole big painting by Jaakko Mattila and in the staff’s linen attire. A nod to Japanese aesthetics is obvious, from the slightly restrained style of service to the few, but meticulously selected components of each dish.

Pomelo and meat in aspic is a perfect example, served with a few slivers of green chili and a dash of ponzu, unceremoniously presented and left for you to explore. A delightful silence falls over the table as you savor the first spoonful. Quivering, thought provoking, fragrant.  Salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami in remarkable harmony. It’s seriously moreish and certainly one of the most memorable dishes on the seven-course menu.

Another winner looks like savory crème brûlée, in fact it turns out to be a house-made, firm and silky tofu served with marinated shiitake mushrooms, and topped with a luscious cured egg yolk cream. A subtle but intentional sprig of watercress sits on the rim, giving the dish a splendid touch of green freshness. You could devour a mound of it, sadly the portion is sized to merely tease your taste buds.

The East Asian-Nordic alliance stretches elegantly throughout the mains. Yakitori-style grilled herring rolls served with slow-roasted, blackcurrant-glazed beets and pine shoots is brilliantly unctuous-acidic. The only dish that feels somewhat safe among the otherwise cutting-edge creations is the triple-grilled red cabbage with a satisfying red wine reduction – a truly “yummy”, yet surprisingly classic dish.

Each course is impeccably paired with teas, wines, beers, and non-alcoholic concoctions, Sommelier Johan Borgar is a beverage pro who’s been shaking up Helsinki’s drinks’ scene for years and he’s certainly not slowing down here at Inari. Those thirsting for more adventurous quaffs can be regaled with aged sake; Inoue Gōmei’s Biden from 1999 is a light koshu with a full body and malt and caramel notes.

Do yourself a favor: don’t try to put Inari’s spirit into one specific box. It won’t fit anyway. Just let the chef seduce you with his Finnish-Korean-Japanese cooking and follow the Inari fox. It‘s said to bring you general prosperity and worldly success.

Published June 2019