Spontan Vinbar

This little oasis of culinary glee, located dead center in the charming city of Trondheim, has a very ‘now’ feel to it, without pledging alliance to any particular food- or wine trend. The dining room is spread over two floors, with simple furniture, striking modern artworks and gastronomy books by famous contemporaries. There is a communal table by the bar for drop-ins, and hip hop in the loudspeakers, on a warm summer’s day, however, it’s more pleasant to sit on the outdoor terrace.

Chef Fredrik Engen’s menu offers some terrific bar snacks, you simply cannot miss the chicken liver with lingonberries and buttered toast; super smooth and creamy, with a clever tart, slightly bitter boost from those quintessentially Scandinavian wild berries. There are no main courses, instead four smaller dishes that can be ordered separately or as a tasting menu. The bill of fare changes frequently, look out for the stunning mushroom, chicken skin and egg yolk dish, as well as the stellar hanger steak with sunchokes. Or, if that sounds too indulgent, go with some lighter options such as the local and ultra fresh shrimps, served raw, they have a unique, milky-fat mouth feel and come with kohlrabi, turnip, goat milk yogurt and dill oil.

The wine list, crafted by Oskar Skjöld, is packed with interesting finds that cater to most preferences; many of them are available by the glass. An exquisite and generous tartare of aged milk cow is topped with leek mayo, fried sourdough and pumpkin seeds. Oskar skillfully pairs it with a Ganevat Savagnin Schiste from Jura.

Spontan’s astute and heartfelt cuisine leans heavily on local ingredients, Trondheim is the epicenter of Norwegian produce, after all. Being the country’s larder has sparked the region’s gastronomic boom. Spontan is clearly riding that wave.

Published January 2020