Restaurant Einer

If fine dining had a punk little brother, it would be Einer. A punk little brother that plays the Stratocaster in a tailored outfit. He’s no anarchist, he’s just as enamored of refined cuisine as the next chef, he’s merely a bit more laidback. Einer, one of the newest contenders on Oslo’s ambitious culinary stage, brings the haute dining experience to a more relaxed level. Guests––a mix of tourists, foodies and locals––enter through the kitchen door where they’re greeted by focused, yet friendly chefs, some of which sharpened their knives at Maaemo and Ekstedt. Past this heart of the restaurant is a striking 17th century dining room with light wood floors, fitted furniture and ceilings covered in traditional decorative painting. The atmosphere is elegant, but comfortable, the service is casual but on-point, there’s tasteful, muted music seeping out of the open cookery.

Never say no when the sommelier offers a bone dry Blanc de Blancs Champagne from Laherte Frères, the bubbles will help you decide between the two menu choices; Animalia includes seafood and meat, while Botanica is strictly vegetarian, both can be had as four- or six course meals. Snacks arrive promptly; the onion and cheese tart is cakey and luscious, the flatbread with peas and elderflowers is appetizing, though perhaps not crispy enough. Marinated arctic char with sugar kelp is a textural beauty, the fish served in a deep dish with crispy cubes of celeriac, a tart bite of rhubarb, salty explosions of salmon roe and cold lovage bouillon that adds an intense depth without overpowering the whole. Skate wing with lumpfish roe, caramelized cauliflower and the season’s first cabbage proves that this underrated fish deserves more attention. The satisfying Koji pancakes are contrasted by tart rhubarb and cold ice cream. Wines are biodynamic and natural, skillfully presented and introduced.

Published January 2020