The ramen siren
Hrímnir Ramen has been a flirtatious tease for quite a few years now, tempting us with delicious and innovative Nordic ramen at sporadic popups and events in both Copenhagen and in Oslo. This seductress is the brainchild of microbiologist David Quist, who finally settled in a permanent spot to crank out bowls of his steaming soup with freshly made emmer noodles, as well as an array of other dishes. What sets this noodle shop apart is the use of Nordic ingredients in combination with foreign fermentation techniques; garum, shoyu, koji and kombucha are all house-made, and bottles of brewing liquids are proudly displayed on shelves throughout the tastefully furnished restaurant. With Maaemo alumni in the kitchen, the quality of the execution lives up to the ambitious concept. A potato salad starter with grilled tubers, bonito flakes and crispy chicken skin is rich with mayonnaise, but balanced with vivid acidity. A plump single scallop is grilled in its shell, served with blackened apple, plum kombucha and browned butter––a fine dining dish at an everyday bistro.
Quist’s ramen does not disappoint: his unctuous, cloudy chicken broth with bouncy noodles, succulent chicken breast, pickled sunchokes and ramps is a winner. Service is relaxed but attentive. Natural wines dominate the beverage list. Of course there are some exciting, fermented non-alcoholic alternatives, including a refreshing but refined water kefir.
Published January 2020