Portal

This place felt like a classic as soon as it opened, almost three years ago now. So naturally easy to love, it somehow felt rutted by regulars right from the start – despite the bright and pretty space decorated with quality materials. The atmosphere is thick with good vibes. Yes, love is in the air – including on the menu, actually. ‘Love stew’ is Klas Lindberg’s winning signature dish – sizeable dollops of vendace roe in a smooth egg cream, surrounded by Gotland potatoes and onion, all of which you gunge up into an almost obscenely yummy love stew. This is something you can come back for any number of times, just like for many of the snacks on the blackboard, such as the aroma-packed cockerel liver terrine. Lindberg’s roots are in the competition kitchen, and he knows how to highlight and frame flavours, though he often turns them up a bit more to make sure that the flavour-deaf don’t miss the sweet song. The deboned quail with baked kohlrabi illustrates his prizewinning sleight of hand – advanced technique makes the dish soar, but a smoked butter sauce brings it safely down to earth and to a charming balance. Occasionally there’s a bit too much of a good thing, as in celeriac that’s been both baked and sautéed in garlic, just to make sure, and is served with an egg confit and winter truffle in a Gruyère mayo – plenty of plentiful flavours that don’t quite come together. The evening’s Swedish fine beef comes straight to the point: SEK 2/gram, dry-aged and perfectly grilled as per the guest’s preference. Having the guest decide the size of the steak is part of the house drive to reduce food waste. The excellent drinks offer is overseen by Totte Steneby and includes everything from Super Tuscans to quirky Nordic beers – perfect to try at the bar counter with the house-made charcuteries.

Published december 2019