




Cultural Culinary Coup
Cultural centers are intrinsic to Estonian towns, but for some reason, food culture remains an outcast in most of them. In general, you’d rather eat elsewhere. The city of Viljandi provides a pleasant exception: Harmoonia, located in a corner of the Sakala Center. The windowless dining room is brought to life by soft lighting and a wood-burning fireplace. The background music, soft and slightly melancholic, reflects the Estonian temperament. Harmoonia serves dishes that are true representations of the country’s culinary customs, there’s even a small smoker in the backyard, an indispensable tool in these parts. The wine selection is good, well above the Estonian average, perhaps because the members of Viljandi’s wine club are regulars. If you want to be perceived as a local, end your meal with a cup of herbal tea, as is customary here.