VERY FINE LEVEL
115 56, Stockholm
070-636 64 09
Beer and local ingredients in a yummy cycle
The Stockholm Brewing Company has moved out of town, to vastly larger premises – and has also opened a restaurant. The enormous brick building that houses Magasin 3 includes an open, airy dining room whose far end is taken up by an open kitchen while one of the longer walls consists of large windows on massive beer tanks. The farm of the name is in fact Karshamra Gård, south of Stockholm, from where many of the ingredients come and to where leftovers and waste are also returned in a recycling system. In other words, seasonality and availability govern the menu, which is changed daily and consists of intermediate dishes. The immediate proximity of a brewery is obvious from the menu as well – the vendace is served with malt mayonnaise and the almond cake is made with malt flour. Despite the local origins of the ingredients, many of the dishes have a southern European feel, and mix flavours from different cultures. Sweet and tart pickled peppers are served with a delicious romesco sauce, and tender octopus with a spicy kimchi cream is topped with various green shoots from the farm. The setup is elegant but simple – far from fine dining and more like relaxed and focused on ingredients. Besides beer from the in-house brewery as well as from friends, there’s a good selection of wines. Drinks recommendations are unconvincingly proffered, though, while staff are otherwise friendly and attentive. Smoked apple adds an exciting dimension to the dessert when served with crispy hazelnuts and a smooth crème anglaise.