Breakfasts, long breakfasts, quick lunches, coffee breaks, dinners and bar snacks. Where Fäviken, Krus’ mother ship on the other side of Åreskutan mountain, doesn’t give you much say as to when and how and what you’re going to eat, here in Åre town you have every opportunity to do pretty much as you like. All year round, early birds are here for coffee and perhaps an egg with home-made caviar as soon as the place opens, the mountain folk troop in for a plate of seed porridge, and – in season – the metropolitan crowd for a bag of the crispest croissants to devour back in their timeshares (did we mention that Krus is a bakery too?). The menu is short, rustic, and homespun. And seasonal, of course. Though on almost any late morning, happily, you can get onion that’s been cooked in whey, oven-browned and topped with really ferric curly-leaf parsley. As well as beef shin or turbot from the grill; don’t miss the worthwhile vins nature to go with them. Then hang around a while until this unassuming little place transforms itself into Svartklubben – and milligram-measures its way to some of the world’s oddest and best (sic!) cocktails.