Halfway between the botanical garden and the library is this modern feature, immediately adjacent to the Museum of Artistic Process and Public Art (Skissernas museum). The restaurant’s large windows create a feeling of being outdoors, the dining room is decorated in subdued tones, and style-wise there’s no doubt that the choice of materials is elegant and Scandinavian. The reception is courteous and friendly, making you feel very welcome. While the waiter guides us through the menu we are served a wonderful little bread basket with deep-fried sourdough bread on top. The Scanian gin & tonic is accompanied by a sweetbread croquette, which is an unexpectedly good combination and much for fun than nuts as a snack! We continue with natural duck liver on a brioche, with a topping that includes powdered vinegar – its flavour is almost too intense, but a semi-dry riesling elegantly saves the day. Our waiter grants us a pleasant pause before the main course and helps us navigate the world of wine: a beaujolais is a fine match for the fried zander accompanied by seasonal yellowfoot and a mussel broth. Dinner approaches its conclusion with a refreshingly modern raspberry and beetroot sorbet that is as flavoursome as it is vibrant. We’re happy that the cooks’ sketches of Nordic flavours are executed, because this place doesn’t disappoint. If you’re up for the more indigestible form of sketch, do take a look at the museum’s beautiful examples.
Published december 2019