Project

VERY FINE LEVEL

Food30/40
  • Restaurant
  • Visita - Svensk Besöksnäring

Södra Vägen 45
412 54Gothenburg
031-18 18 58
projectgbg.com

Seats 50

The devil’s in the detail

Project, located near the somewhat chaotic Korsvägen, is housed in one of several beautiful brick buildings from the beginning of the previous century. The interior is all arched windows, crystal chandeliers casting a soft light, velvet settees, large-pattern medallion carpeting, and an innumerable number of wine bottles behind the bar. The tables fill up quickly no matter what day of the week it is. The staff assure us that the set menus, which are really the thing here, will fill us up equally whether they’re three, five or seven-course deals. The difference is in how broad a spectrum of flavours we want to experience. And irrespective of the choice of menu, well-crafted creations land on the marble table – some shine more brightly than others, and sudden euphoria occurs together with well-chosen wines. Salted haddock with eel (eel? Yes, it’s a secondary catch, reduced to a stock here), a crispy, wafer-thin layer of kohlrabi and borage leaves. And to favour the taste buds further: a moscatel from Quinta do Vallado. Jerusalem artichoke is served as a smooth, lovely, fluffy mousse with browned butter, in pieces and dried as a sprinkled topping. Glorious flavours. The beef tartare, of fabulous hand-chopped meat from Ölanda, had sadly been honoured with a bit too much caramelised onion. The fantastic free-range pig is baked for 72 hours, surface-crisped and served with long-roasted beetroot full of earthy flavours plus a keen apple cream. A superb barolo makes a fine match. Compressed apple (chemistry, anyone?) surrounded by apple sorbet of peel and delicious crumbs provides the final touch to a dinner whose professional and amiable framing has pleased us so – dish by dish and glass by glass. 

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