VERY FINE LEVEL
211 21, Malmö
Sensuous precision in old Malmö
In the tiny dining room on Västergatan they conjure harmonious gastro-magic. It’s so tranquil we wonder whether our hearts have slowed a beat or two. Blond wood dominates the furnishings, and seasonal heads of dill sprout from the tables’ vases. The menu has changed slightly since last time, and now comprises 6 dishes of varying sizes, with an accompanying wine or juice package if you wish. Land animals rarely have to give their lives here; the menus are usually dominated by greens and marine creatures, such as Swedish octopus. The first round is a pair of smaller servings, where a refreshing, salty, cold shot made from green tomato and shiitake impresses. Chlorophyll-fresh, with the mushroom’s big flavour featuring but not usurping the whole. Wine selections are apposite – an earthy cauliflower with parmesan and truffle is perfectly paired with a pinot gris from Beck-Hartweg in the Alsace. The staff are of course the key to the atmosphere, and they guide us through the meal with a safe and pleasantly relaxed hand. The highlight of the evening is cod served with tart spinach, yellowfoot, and a foam of browned butter and soy. It’s an exquisitely tasty dish. It is with sadness that we move on in life when the foam is finished. Västergatan is a restaurant with a strong character, but in its own subdued and unpretentious way. Chef Olle Ahnberg focuses fiercely on ingredients and flavours, the execution is confident and completely free of vacuous flourishes. The reception and service feel like a warm embrace – it’s easy to feel at home here!