Hörte Brygga

VERY FINE LEVEL

Food29/40
  • Restaurant
  • Fun
  • Hjärtekrog

Hörte Hamn, Dybäck 465
274 54Skivarp
0739-97 13 42
http://hortebrygga.se

Seats 26

A tasty lesson in survival

’It’s really good to learn stuff like this in case there’s a war!’ This we hear from the party at the next table. Survival is an apt term when all manner of wild and exciting things you didn’t know you could eat are put on your plate. Most of it is of course cultivated or otherwise produced, but usually in a field no more than short walk away. At Hörte they’ve always danced to their own tune, but that tune has grown more melodic and rhythmic of late. In 2018 this means produce from the ‘farm of the week’ and special visits on Sundays by a string of name chefs. Lunch is in a picnic basket, while dinner centres on the smokery. ‘You’d like to order at the bar, is that it?’ With endless patience, each guest is coaxed into position, and the conga line towards gastronomic good humour can begin three-stepping. Glasses are filled with vin nature or Hörte’s own lager. Numbered wooden cutlery is exchanged, one by one, for a dish you have to get yourself from the smokery. It might start with a meaty bean pâté (without meat) of kidney beans, port wine, onion and carrot, accompanied by fermented cucumber and a rye bread crisp topped with fennel dill. Presenting dishes à la minute is a stroke of genius. Talkative long-sitters are as content as families with kids and a ticking clock. The evening’s talking point becomes the intriguing dessert of green lentils, sorbet of slow-baked carrot, roasted heritage rye and Mexican tarragon.  

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