VERY FINE LEVEL
599 93, Ödeshög
Knowledgeable and agreeable on the shores of Lake Vättern
From the veranda of Turisthotellet we watch the waves on Lake Vättern make white horses in a stiff breeze blowing across the Östergötland plain. Several of the ingredients in our meal, it will turn out, come from the farms we can make out in the distance. And from more nearby, too: a piece of pulled veal is from neighbouring Alvastra Gård. Its juicy meat has a mild saltiness and is encased in a thin coating of fried batter. Some peppery radish shoots add zest to this promising start. The fresh flavours continue in lightly cooked, slightly crunchy white asparagus from Hjo on the Västergötland side, garnished with local herb shoots. A crisp chardonnay is a felicitous wine recommendation. If it had been Pride Week in the area, the rainbow-coloured dish that follows could have been dish of the week: a lightly grilled perch against orange carrot cream, yellow squash blossoms, and a green oil infused with watercress, which has a nice sweetness. Flavours grow richer with wild boar, an aromatic onion broth and pickled Jerusalem artichoke. Wild boar is easy to go astray with, but here it’s excellent, tender and mild. Palates are then rinsed with a refreshing rhubarb granita wearing sparkling wine foam. All in all Turisthotellet delivers exquisite flavours, pretty presentations, savvy wine suggestions and a kindly reception. Possibly logistics will be challenged by a larger group of guests, which can cause some delays between courses, but that’s all. Plus points for a good local selection of non-alcoholic drinks.