Sushi and sashimi south of the centre
The doorbell rings again and again. A steady stream of takers-away picking up freshly prepped stuff from the sea. Word of raw wares on rice, in cones and rolls has spread. This is the street-smart younger sibling of Soyokaze, the stylish Japanese eatery in the city centre. Both go mainly for omakase: a selection of small dishes that varies with ingredient availability and cooks’ moods, and is served in short order. Ably executed and considerably cheaper here on the city fringe, where Soyokafe is more a day-to-day izakaya. The small space is plainly wood-panelled in grey, and lit by pitiless spotlights. The fish and seafood selection extends from springy zander and various cuts of tuna, via Finnish farmed sturgeon to both sea urchin and (occasionally rubbery) octopus. The baked egg scented with truffle and fish roe has been very good, as has the temaki. Service is quick and friendly, but a bit callow. The seated guests are mainly foodie 30-somethings, often having their Sunday sushi together with their kids.